Manado – Makasar – Tana Toraja

Po nabrati sil a oddychu v nudnom meste Manado sme si kupili letenky do hlavneho mesta Sulavez Makasaru. Let prebehol hladko samozrejme s meskanim takze sme prisli za tmy do Makasaru cesta z letiska nevyzerala lakavo ze by to malo byt pekne mesto. Ubytovali sme sa v novsom hoteli co znamenalo ze nebol taky spinavy ako ostatne indonezske hotely. Mesto nas nicim zvlastnym neohurilo jedna pevnost Fort Rotterdam (pozostatok z holandskej kolonizacie) a vsade plno nakupnych centier kde predavali iba blbosti trhoveho typu a bol tu supermarket Carrefour takze znak civilizacie. Ulice boli prepchate mikrobusmi a motorkami. Anglicky skoro nikto nevedel ale vsetci nas stale zdravili Hello Mister co bolo uz dost otravne. Po dvoch dnoch stravenych v nudnom Makasare sme odisli do horskej oblasti Tana Toraja, konkretne do mesta Rantepao. Nocny autobus bol vcelku dobry ale indonezske cesty moc nie takze moc som sa nevyspal aj ked sme mali vela miesta na nohy a samozrejme klimatizacia isla na maximum takze teplota bola okolo 18 stupnov a vsetci cestujuci vo svetroch a zakryti dekami. Rano nas vylozili pri hoteli kde sme sa chceli ubytovat ale samozrejme hotel spinavy ako chliev tak sme sli hladat nieco dalsie po 2 hodinach chodenia sme nasli nieco cistejsie s peknym vyhladom na hory takze sme ostali. Unaveni po ceste sme dospali spankovy deficit a sli sa naobedovat. Dvojica nemcov Steffi a Harry ktori byvali vedla nas nam dali nejake zakladne info o okoli. Restauracie v Rantepao nevyzerali najlakavejsie ale jedlo bolo velmi dobre, obzvlast zeleninove salaty (avocado a rozne ine). Na druhy den v Rantepao sme si pozicali motorku a sli sa previezt po okoli. Prvy dojem som mal ze toto miesto bude nic moc. Po 30 minutach jazdy sa nam ukazala nadherna sceneria krajny ryzove polia v kopcoch na ktorych robili dedincania sem tam nejake buffalo na policku, zelena farba nas obklopovala zo vsetkych stran takze velmi prijemna jazda . Sem tam sme sa zastavili a pokochali sa pohladom na okolie a urobili zopar fotiek. Ludia tu boli velmi prijemni a vitali nas usmevom a prekvapivo nas nikto neotravoval predajom nejakych zbytocnosti. Plni prijemnych dojmov sme sa vratili na hotel a spustil sa riadny lejak ako ma byt cez obdobie dazdov. Na odporucanie nasich susedov sme sa rozhodli ist do Loko mata a Batatumongy a predtym sme sa zastavili na miestom trhu kde predavali aj zive zvierata a ktory sa kona kazdych 6 dni. Trh mi pripadal ako jarmok na slovensku zo zaciatku minuleho storocia. Predavali sa tam Bufala, prasata, kohuty a taktiez sme videli kohutie zapasy. Ceny Bufalo (podobne ako krava) boli astronomicky vysoke lebo sa predavaju na pohrebne ritualy ceny su od 5-10 tisic euro za jeden kus pricom na jednom pohrebe moze byt obetovanych az 150 kusov. Nechcelo sa mi verit tomu ale pohreb sa tu chysta niekedy aj rok takze ludia maju cas pozhanat bufala.

Cesta na loko matu bola trochu narocnejsia do kopca s rozbitym povrchom takze sme boli trochu unaveni ale ked sme dorazili hore pohlad na cele udolie bol uzasny bolo vidiet same ryzove polia a kavovniky a vsade zelen.Taku nadhernu krajinu sme doposial este nevideli. V Loko mate sme si pozreli pohrebne miesta vytesane v skalach kde miestni stale este pochovavaju svojich pozostalych. Cesta do Batatumongy bola nadherna s krasnymi sceneriami pricom sme sa zastavovali a robili foto (nedalo sa odolat) samozrejme poobedna burka nas popohnala dolu do Rantepaa takze sme cestou aj pekne zmokli ale stalo to za to. Na dalsi den sme sa vratili do Batutumonga si pozriet to nadherne miesto kde sme znovu zmokli a trochu aj prechladli. Stefii a Harry sa nas opytali ci nechceme ist s nimi na miestny pohreb ze boli pozvani a ci nejdeme s nimi takze sme neodolali aj ked sme sa necitili najlepsie. Takze po trochu komplikovanej ceste sme sa dostali na konec jednej dediny kde sme odparkovali motorky a peso sli cez rozmocene ryzove polia k miestnej usadlosti kde sa konal pohrebny obrad …cesta cez ryzove polia bola pekne smyklava takze obcas sme isli po 4 nozky. Po 10 minutach sme dorazili cely zablateni na pohreb kde zrovna skoncili s obetovavanim bufall (na tomto pohrebe zabili iba 6 bufal a 4 prasata). Samozrejme hned na nas vsetci pozerali jedna z pribuznych pozostalych nas privitala a pozvala nas pod bambusovy pristresok my na prejav ucty sme im dali velky karton cigariet co je jeden z najvascich prejavov ucty a posadili sme sa pricom nam nas sprievodca opisoval ceremoniu co sa robi a preco sa robi..na zemi uz lezalo 6 mrtvych bufall a stahovali z nich kozu takze sme jednym okom pozerali na nich …medzicasom nam priniesli kavu zo zakuskami…vsetko tu malo svoj poriadok kazdy mal svoj pristresok (bolo ich asi 30 ) pricom kazdy vedel co ma robit vedla nas zabijali prasa a hned ho aj opiekli. Chlapi s macetami sekali tela leziace na zemi a triedili maso a rozdavali kazdemu pritomnemu podla poriadku. Tento ceremonial sa odohraval pred truhlou zosnulej k tomu aby jej pomohli prejst blizie k bohu po smrti (cim viac bufall tym lahsia cesta k bohu ). Atmosfera tam bola neuveritelna kedze bolo teplo a slnko pieklo pomaly sa zacal sirit smrad z krvi ktorou bola nasiaknuta zem taktiez smrad z vytrusov na telach zvierat sa uz zacinali zlietavat muchy do toho dzavot deti hrajucich sa s kopytami bufall vedla hrali chlapy karty o peniaze a do amplionu davali pokyny co sa ma diat bolo tam asi 100 ludi a to bol iba prvy den pohrebu (trva 3 dni) vzapati este niekto prinesol prasa takze ho isli zabit (prasa uviazane o bambusove dosky pricom dostane jednu ranu do srdca a je po nom ). Domaci nas pohostili palmovym vinom (nieco ako ocot) a dali nam ochutnat domace speciality rybu, bravcove s krvou a mastne bravcove maso, samozrejme s ryzou. Takze plni zazitkov sme porobili zopar fotiek a po 2 hodinach stravenych na pohrebe sme sa pobrali dalej. Priroda okolo Rantepao ma osobne velmi prekvapila je to jedno z najkrajsich miest co som kedy videl na svete. Takze vylet sem sa rozhodne oplatil.

Dnes odchadzame z Indonezie plny roznych dojmov a zazitkov aj dobrych aj zlych.

Link na moje fotky www.picasaweb.google.com/marekaugustin/

25 Comments to “Manado – Makasar – Tana Toraja”

  1. By 2ge, 21. Marec 2011 @ 14:50

    a co tak hodit linky na fotogalerie ? fotky nemusis linkovat priamo, ale odkaz sa vzdy hodi. Ze by si ich nenahral este ? :)

  2. By admin@, 22. Marec 2011 @ 17:43

    uz je tam aj link nech sa paci uz su tam

  3. By Markoff, 25. Marec 2011 @ 12:42

    a kde ste vlastne po indonezii?

    • By Bryan, 6. August 2014 @ 19:57

      Peknfd deň Nič nove9 Fotky pozne1m Tak isto me1m mnoho cudzedch a starfdch fotografied Hriňovej a lazov, no nzeevrejňujem ich DTonline pod svojim menom ako nejake1 firma Palustris p. Konšteka, lebo viem, že nie som autorom tfdch fotografied. Je smutne9, že sa zabfada, že autorom fotografie sa neste1vate tak, že tfa fotku niekde ne1jdete, prefotedte, zverejnedte Pri bŕľaned v starfdch negatedvoch v mfazeu v Martine mi bolo vysvetlene9 ako je to s pre1vami , a tu videdm niekoľko fotografied, ktore9 majfa autorov, videl som ich aj v mfazeu, no coyraight je nejakfd Palustris , na smiech .Ošetrite si to , je to chore9, take9 kapitalisticke9 .

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  4. By Markoff, 31. Marec 2011 @ 9:44

    K tym busom, co som sa bavil s ljdmi dozvedrl som sa ze vacsina (?) ich ma rozbitu regulaciu teploty takze bud moze byt vyhulena uplne alebo vypnuta uplne, ja osobne by som preferoval v noci skor uplne vypnutu.

    Ad cigarety a davanie celeho kartonu, urcite musi existovat aj iny prejav ucty ak podporovat v ich nechutnom vsadepritomnom fajceni co sa tyka len muzov kedze ziadna zena nefajci, lebo fajcenie sa spaja s vulgarnym spravanim kuriev.

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    uz som nasiel odpoved u inehoclanku ze na Sri Lanke, tak netreba odpovedat

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